Bark and Jack Grey NATO version 2.0
September 10, 2020
The British Ministry of Defense was on to something when they created what we call the NATO strap today. Like most things with a Mil-Spec attached to it, this was a simple function only tool that served a specific purpose which was to hold the watches of the military soldiers on their wrists (at the time issued watches had fixed in-place spring bars so the pass through was needed) through the unpredictable predicaments war has tendency to create. Wars, however, do not last forever and while some old technology fades away, the humble NATO strap began its colorful evolution that was one part technology, and one part fashion. What was once a item of necessity, modern trends have turned into an entire industry with a full spectrum of prices, colors, and most assuredly, quality.
I have a very pragmatic view of NATO’s. If people have been reading my website they know I do not go out of my way to throw my watches on a NATO. Others adore them and I totally respect that as I understand the fun of a quick and easy strap change and a NATO makes changing colors a breeze. In order or me to review a NATO strap it must offer something special. The first example of this I found was Haveston straps. They are one of my all time favorite NATO’s as they are the premier Military inspired NATO on the market today. The color choices and themes are perfectly paired with a very innovative construction which allows for ease of wear. I dabbled with Blu Shark for a while as they offer a staggering number color combos with a respectable amount of quality. This last NATO I am reviewing for you today is from Bark and Jack and like the others, it is something very special.
While Haveston has the military theme nailed down, and Blu Shark has a mind blowing amount of choices, the Bark and Jack NATO 2.0 is one of the best quality NATOs I have ever felt. I wanted to give this one a chance as the last Bark and Jack leather strap had me struggling to find enough adjectives to praise it. I think this NATO will pose an equal challenge to my limited vocabulary.
Here is what Bark and Jack says about his NATO 2.0:
This is the OG of the NATO strap world. The original NATO strap, as specified by the British MOD, was made in “Admiralty Grey”. Decades later the grey NATO is the most popular colour.
The fine folks at Bark and Jack go on to explain the history of the NATO in a concise, accurate and humorous way, that if you enjoy the Bark and Jack Youtube channel (and who would not?) you will quickly find yourself smiling. But lets review this strap.
DIMENSIONS
I purchased the 20mm version of this strap for one simple reason. I have a couple of Hamilton Khaki field watches and if any watch in the world should reside proudly on a NATO, then by God, this is that watch. They both claim a 20mm lug width and thusly my choice was made for me, all my other watches be damned. The strap is true to its 20mm width and as far as I can tell comes in one length, 290mm long. Now, there are two types of NATO straps in this world. The kind that are purposely shortened ( to about 10″) which require no fold and tuck, and then there is this strap who fully embrace the fold and tuck and give you plenty of length to accomplish this without it looking like an afterthought.
Geometrically though, the length is still run of the mill NATO for the most part. However, some clue that the folks at Bark and Jack put some thought into their NATO come evident when you take a look at the thickness. This is a 1mm thick nato. Not 1.3mm or 1.5mm, but 1.0. From 5 feet away you would not know, but from a wearability point of view this lithe construction pays huge dividends in wearability (which I just happen to have a section dedicated to) and comfort. Just like leather straps around 2.0mm or less the lack of heft pays huge dividends in flexibility. When you need to fold and tuck the keepers having the absolute minimum thickness helps immeasurably and finally this svelte dimension adds the minimum amount of additional unwanted height under the watch which to me is of paramount importance.
DESIGN
You will hear many descriptors used when it comes to describing the material a NATO is made from (seatbelt, ballistic, nylon, etc). The material and woven pattern make a huge difference in the personality of the strap. When I review a leather strap I can talk about the provenance of the tannery and the quality of the edge sealant and depth of the texture or grain in the hide. However when it comes to a NATO, it is really comes down to two variables, color and texture.
The Hamilton Khaki Mechanical hit the watch world not like a storm, but more importantly like a heritage filled affordable storm. If any new watch in recent history deserves a NATO more I am not sure what it is. My choice was the black PVD coated version and it came on a horribly adequate NATO strap. One thing they did get right, though, was the color. This Bark and Jack Grey is absolutely on point to the extent I would say it was made for this watch (aside from the brushed keepers, but I digress)
The color is slightly metallic and in the right light has darker tones to it that almost melt into the black PVD case of the watch. The thread does its job to play with light, and the same way a lawn mowed in different directions reflects green light differently this strap has various woven patterns in the strap. The bulk of the middle of the strap looks like a fine mesh, but the outside edges reveal a more rolled deep ‘V’ pattern that almost look like a totally different color. I have seen this in other NATOs, but I never get tired of this effect.
The texture is another way of setting this strap apart. This is the smoothest NATO strap I have ever felt. I thought it may just have been a placebo effect as anything new is super mega awesome and exciting, so I put it to the test. When held blindfolded against a high quality competing strap such as a Blushark alpha premier ultra luxury strap this strap was texturally smoother and more pleasant against the skin. I could pick it out 4 out of 4 times. The difference is real and is a clue to the real target market for this strap. If ever a NATO could be a luxury item, which to be crystal clear it most decidedly cannot, the Bark and Jack NATO 2.0 may be the first to be actually compatible with a real luxury style watch. The color is simple and clean with real depth. The texture is near silken in its smoothness to the skin and the whole thing comes together without screaming for attention with loud stripes or a neon color palette.
As far as I can tell all the edges on the outside of the strap are smoothly rolled and the adjustment holes are heat sealed after being cut and should last for a while during service. During my week long test including showers and rain not so much as a stitch displayed any wear.
KEEPER AND BUCKLE
If I am to keep my credibility when I say this is a strap destined for a luxury tool watch it better have hardware to match the exquisite fabric used to make this strap. I am happy to say it really does itself justice. Bark and Jack have given this strap two keepers like most NATO’s but unlike most they use the floating keeper near the buckle to keep the folded and tucked fabric in check and tightly controlled at all times. The keepers are rectangular in form and are linearly brushed ever so lightly. The edges have been rounded and no sharp corners seek to scratch you are anything you should come into contact with. It should also be noted that the keepers are perfectly sized to hold precisely 3 layers of material inside of them. One for the strap and two more for the folded and tucked thickness of the loose end running through it. There is no fighting to feed the strap through and pull it snug, Once snug, it never moves throughout the day. It should be noted that on the keeper that is facing your body on the inside of the wrist a very nice Bark and Jack logo is lightly etched across the keeper.
The buckle is similarly finished with linear brushing and an equally very lightly etched B & J logo offset to one side. I enjoy it when a manufacturer has enough pride in their product to place a small delicate reminder of who made it and that the owner should be just as proud.
HOW DOES IT WEAR
I could be very curt and say it wears like any other NATO, but that would be like saying a fine suits trousers wears like starched blue jeans. At the risk of being pedantic, this requires a more verbose explanation. This wears ever so comfortably on the wrist. In every possible aspect the thin construction pays dividends from the time you feed the strap through the wrist pins the first time to the final pull of the strap to snug in the folded portion. The strap moves with you at all times and the overall appearance sits close to the wrist and does not add additional bulk to your wrist as some other more utilitarian NATO’s might.
I have a set of rules and procedures I follow when I shop for and procure a new NATO. First rule is I always buy a single pass when possible as I normally do not tolerate the bulk added to the wrist from 1) the fold and tuck, and 2) the additional height it adds to the watch. The second rule is if I cannot buy a single pass, I immediately set the NATO on the cutting board and give it a nylon Lobotomy by removing the mostly useless extra strap that adds unwanted height on the wrist, and limits the watches placement to 2 inches of the NATO expansive length. The way the Bark and Jack NATO 2.0 is made this is the first NATO I have not cut off that extra piece of strap. The construction is so thin it tucks away to almost be unnoticeable in most conditions and I like that very much.
WHAT IS IT GOOD FOR
The true home of a NATO is on a military style watch. But the simple NATO has won hearts and minds across the watch spectrum and now almost any watch is fair game for the humble strap of nylon. However, since I am still somewhat of a purest at heart I feel these are best kept orbiting around the original mission it was designed for. Tool watches and field watches are a natural fit, but the Bark and Jack Grey is so universal that it could look good on a shocking number of casual and dare I say some dressy watches (within reason).
I would try this NATO on my Omega SMP and an Explorer (or Explorer II) in a heart beat. I think it could even work on a JLC Polaris or Glashutte Original Sixties model since it would not be competing for attention from the dial. The diversity of watches this could work on is staggering. I would avoid the thicker Black Bay models from Tudor (or any watch over 15mm) as they are just too thick and would overpower the elegant 1mm strap, but the Black Bay 58 would be pure win. These are just guidelines mind you, I always encourage you to try what you want. The quality is not questionable and for the price you are getting a fine NATO that is among the best available.
WHERE DO I GET IT
The only place I know where to get the Bark and Jack Grey NATO 2.0 is straight from the Bark and Jack Shop
SUMMARY
Maybe the best compliment that can be given to anybody is one from a respected adversary. When Darth Vader said, “Obi-One has trained you well!” Luke had to think, ‘Dang! thanks Darth’ , even though he was fighting for his life and all that. I do not consider myself in the ranks of those who adore NATO straps. However, I definitely have both my feet planted firmly in the group that love high quality products. The Bark and Jack NATO gives that bit of something special that makes you take notice and sets it apart. I have completely enjoyed every moment wearing this strap and I can honestly say I am impressed with its construction and comfort it provides. I was also amazed that the conclusion I came to was this was, in fact, a luxury NATO strap. Sometimes these reviews just take me to a surprising place! I have no idea if that was what Bark and Jack was going for, but it definitely works for me and I think you will definitely notice a difference between this NATO and the rest.
One closing thought. If I may be so bold as to make a suggestion when shopping for a NATO. Any NATO strap that is less than 15 dollars, just walk away. I have found the best NATOs start to exist at about 20 buck mark. This is not to say all inexpensive NATOs are rubbish, but when pairing with a watch that costs 500 to 5000 dollars I feel it is worth a bit more of an investment in a strap that will have the special details and quality to match the watch. Below 15 dollars you start to miss out on important details like heat sealed edges or higher quality materials. Quality is worth spending money on and that is usually true regardless of the product.