Crown and Buckle Berthold Black Label Watch Strap
October 24, 2019
This is my second foray into the Black Label collection by Crown and Buckle. I have a secret to tell you. I pick my watch straps for review based on my constantly evolving watch collection. I buy what I like in hopes that I will have something interesting to report to you, the reader. I have never received a poor product from Crown and Buckle. The black label collection in particular seems to be highly finished and very well thought out in both leather choice and construction.
My first Black Label was the Ulrich (review here: https://strapsense.com/2018/03/12/crown-and-buckle-ulrich-black-label-strap/ ) and it was a very under the radar strap that proved a simple thing done well which is always something to be admired. The Berthold strap which comes in at 90 US dollars is not cheap, but it inhabits what I feel is a sweet spot in the 50-90 dollar price range that if viewed in a Venn Diagram would overlap with quality materials and excellent construction. In short, this strap brings value to your wrist, without sacrificing quality and is definitely worth a mention and review.
The strap came very quickly and soon found itself on no less than 4 of my watches looking for a place where it would really shine. I ended up leaving on a watch I never intended it to be on. Sometimes this is the way of things, happy surprises if you will. Before my review, here is what Crown and Buckle say about the Burthold:
This strap might be Season 4’s sleeper hit. The Berthold is a very dark brown leather that has a bit of a dry & ashy appearance, which is deceiving as it’s actually an oiled leather. The leather has a noticeable pull-up effect (which means it gets lighter as it’s flexed). It is fully stitched with matching thread, for a subtle look.
Each strap is made in Spain by master craftsmen using distinguished leathers. Please allow minor variance from the photos.
DIMENSIONS
The strap I ordered is 20mm so all my dimensions will be based on that particular strap. However, this strap is also available in 18mm and 22mm as well. The strap measures 19.5mm at the lugs and has an elegant taper to 15.5mm on the free end and 16.4mm on the buckle end. This was a curious choice by the manufacturer but in hindsight makes perfect sense. The thinner free end will make the strap feed easier and with less wear in the long run. Whether this was deliberate or on accident is up for debate, however the benefits are very much real.
This strap measures 2.3mm thick. That puts this strap squarely on the dressy side of equation. It pays dividends in flexibility and lightness, but also runs contrast to the rough and tumble look of beautiful pull up leather on the outside may suggest. The strap is 115/75mm for the free end and buckle end respectively. This means on my 7” wrist it puts me on the 3rd to the last adjustment hole (out of 7) for that perfect comfortable fit.
DESIGN
I wore this strap for weeks, and it had me befuddled a bit as to what it wanted to be. Was it a dress strap? Well its thickness and taper would surely lead you down that path. Was it a sport strap? Its aged leather look with slight pull up certainly evokes a rough vintage aesthetic. Two such diametrically opposing styles are melded into this singular well made strap.
Since the materials say one thing and the form says another, I think it would be interesting to look at them separately. First, the leather used in this construction is ever so curtly described as ‘distinguished’ leather. As helpful as that is (read as: not even a little helpful) it is only left to tactile examination that this leather can be understood.
The strap has its hide well oiled and has a waxed appearance. The color is what I would call an ashy brown. It is deep in hue and varies slightly over the entire outer surface. The strap is described as having a pull up effect in the sales description, but I struggle to find more than a trace of it upon examination. The tactile feel is very pleasant however, as the oils which it was impregnated with are noticeable to the touch. These same oils and waxes mean the strap will pick up and show scratches easily but they are just as easily removed by rubbing them with your fingers. This strap should patina very well.
The underside has a black semi satin finished leather sewn to the top layers. This is a very smooth material and is very pleasant against the wrist. Unlike the outer leather, this leather has far more abrasion resistance and should do an admirable job giving the strap some durability. The Black Label marking is the sole embellishment proudly stamped into the underside of the free end of the strap. I was pleased to see the sides are wonderfully burnished and painted which grants a tidy and finished looked the whole package.
Since we have switched to form now, we can address the stitching. Done in a very subtle fashion in terms of color choice and size, the brown thread is nearly a perfect match for the straps color. They are tightly spaced and done with a very fine thread as to almost disappear. When light hits them they have some shine, but only as much to be described as a glint.
The material and construction aspects do meld well to give a strap that is both elegant without looking fragile. A tough trick to pull off.
KEEPER AND BUCKLE
The Crown and Buckle Berthold uses a typical two keeper system with one being fixed and the other allowed to float to better hold the extra strap length. They are wonderfully sized with enough clearance to allow the strap to easily pass through, but without being sloppy or obtuse. They have a nice rollmark on both edges and it appears the sides are sealed just like the strap. The color of the keepers are spot on the same as the strap and the two work well together.
The buckle is a very squared off affair. It is thin, highly polished, with a flat tang. The buckle is without any branding of any kind and steals none of the spotlight from the leather strap. The buckle is also available from Crown and Buckle in Brushed, Black PVD and Gold Plated for more versatility when ordering.
HOW DOES IT WEAR
Right out of the box the strap is ready for daylong comfort. The inherent thinness of the strap works well with the chosen materials to guarantee flexibility. This all but ensures it will wear effortlessly. I was able to find a comfortable fit on all of the watches I tried it on. The straps taper allows it to form around the wrist and be tactically invisible when the wrist moves. The color while it does not affect how the strap wears, is very complex as it is not just simple brown. The strap has an ashy tone to it, which imbues the strap with strong vintage overtones and is pleasant to look at.
I put this strap through my rigorous ‘wear in’ procedure where I pulled it repeatedly through the buckle at a 45 degree angle over 50 times and it showed little to no signs of wear on the leather and the sides of the strap. It should age well and pick up patina without causing undue harm. As good as it is new, I think this strap will only get better with use.
WHAT IS IT GOOD FOR
I mentioned earlier that this is a dual personality strap. It has the color and feel of beautiful vintage leather that could look good on a pilots watch or an old field watch. However it also has this lovely thin construction and elegant taper that lends itself to smaller dress watch or vintage daily wear watch. No matter what you put this on, I strongly recommend a thinner watch that is 41mm or smaller in diameter. I had this on thicker watches and it resembled a gym rat that routinely missed leg day. Thicker watches will easily overpower this strap. Keep it sub 12mm and it should hold its own quite well.
WHERE CAN I GET IT
The only place I have found this strap is on the crown and buckle website:
https://www.crownandbuckle.com/berthold-black-label-strap.html
SUMMARY
The Crown and Buckle Berthold is a prime example of getting good product for good money. They offer a whole line of straps in the Black Label Collection that assure you quality and beauty in one package. All the buyer has to do is find one he/she likes and soon a quality strap will be in your mailbox for you to enjoy. While not ground breaking in any way, these straps offer solid design and complete peace of mind. Peace of mind that money spent will go straight to producing a quality product worthy of the price. For some people, including myself, that is a very good thing.
