Bulang and Sons Ripstop Watch Strap

When I write a review for a watch strap I often do not start until inspiration hits me. Like the weather in the south, the source and magnitude of the inspiration is variable and unpredictable.  It may go something like this.  Driving to take the family to lunch or the park, the sunlight will hit my wrist a certain way while listening to a song that makes my youngest boy crack up for whatever reason and I look down and see the suede fabric of my seat and think to myself, “you what had cool seats, the Volkswagon GTI with those retro cloth Tartan pattern seats”.  I look back at the road and the watch strap catches my eye and Huzzah, it hits me.   This strap has kind of the same look, OH WAIT, a review is born.  Yes, it is that convoluted, and explains why some reviews take days and others take weeks.  It is how my mind works and is my go to pattern for the nearly 100 strap reviews on Strapsense so far.  It cannot be forced and it cannot be artificial as readers can sense a disingenuous article mile away. A good strap review, an impactful strap review, is the distillation of an emotion or feeling.   This is because, words fade, but emotions last for decades.  

I like to think I am immune to hype and marketing, but in reality nobody is. So, I must check my arrogance at the door on this one.  Consider for a moment marketing and human interaction following the same principles as the observation effect in physics and engineering.  This effect can be simply defined as you cannot measure something without simultaneously effecting it thus altering the outcome. Every Youtube add, and Instagram flash add regardless of the dexterity of your scrolling finger has a small incremental effect on our perception of the watch industry. When Bulang And Sons dropped the ads for the new Ripstop strap I saw it and glanced at it as I would with anybody who takes enough time to make an add about a watch strap, but eventually kept scrolling (However it did make me pause – mission accomplished). It was interesting, but fabric straps have existed and I have reviewed them before.  Wait a few days and an email with the same strap came up which gave B&S a chance to ‘set the hook’. It worked.  In all fairness, I never really had a chance as I have truly enjoyed every strap I have ever reviewed from them, so something touted as new is very interesting. I really love the care Bulang and Sons gives to the development of their product line and as I read a bit more I was intrigued enough to add it to my cart for this review. Let’s hear it for marketing. But as I would find out, let’s hear it for a darn fine watch strap. Here is what B&S says about this strap.

The cotton ripstop watch strap is arguably the most Bulang and Sons strap yet – it combines a rare, high quality vintage cotton ripstop material that has an intriguing story and an awesome aura with the ability to evolve individually. Inspired by vintage military style but focused on serving as a blank canvas for your personal journey, our cotton ripstop watch strap proposes a truly unique look!

Interesting description, but I think I can add some meat to the bones. Full review is below.

DIMENSIONS

I order a pair of Bulang and Sons Straps. I will review the other one later. Both are 19mm but are also available in most popular sizes as well. My strap was 18.7mm at the lugs that tapers to a pleasant 16mm at the buckle (note this is true no matter which lug width you buy).  The thickness starts around 2.8mm and goes down to 2.1mm. However, due to the different texture and weights of the thread used in the ripstop fabric, my measurements could vary depending on where my calipers landed. I would say the strap is on average 2.5mm thick. Which is darn near perfect for this kind of daily wear strap. 

While I ordered the regular length, this strap is also available in a short version for those with smaller wrists. My strap is listed as 115mm/75mm for the regular length for the free end and buckle end respectively (short version can take 10mm off both of those numbers), which means on my First Omega In Space (47mm lug to lug) I am on the third to the last adjustment hole on my 6.9” wrist.  On the bell curve of wrists and watches, this strap should satisfy the vast majority of people. 

DESIGN

In engineering one of the most exciting things that can happen is a new material is created.  A new material opens up the doors for crazy new inventions or unheard of advancements in products that already exist. The impacts of a new material cannot be understated as it has the power to make the impossible / possible overnight. I have no doubt that currently there are countless inventions waiting to be released onto the public as they only waiting for a material that does not exist yet that can take a given load, or a polymer that can resist a certain amount of heat.  Graphene is one such ‘super material’ that you will hear a great deal about and seems to be poised for a huge transformation of what is possible (if they can figure out how to manufacture it in bulk in a cost efficient manner). New materials give engineers another tool with which to create the products we use and touch.  While ripstop fabric is FAR from new (developed in the 80’s), its use on a watch strap is something of an inspired choice and since the straps name bears this nomenclature, we should look into what ripstop fabric really is. 

As you are probably aware, fabric can be woven into many different configurations. Textiles can be made to be strong in one direction and flexible in another.  Your basic cotton is usually rather homogeneous in its properties and appearance. Therefore, a plain cotton T-shirt has fairly uniform strength in all directions. It is very comfortable but not the most durable fabric.  Once a fabric like cotton tears it creates a stress concentration point at the flaw and will usually continue to grow at the point of discontinuity.  In rugged conditions a soft breathable fabric will not last long meaning the end user must deal with decreased comfort and the added weight of a rugged textile or material.  People could have a durable fabric or a comfortable one but not both. Enter the ripstop weave. Ripstop integrates a toughened nylon (or polymer) thread into the otherwise soft fabric weave every 1/8 inch or so in a square pattern.  This combination gives incredible increases in strength and comfort with minimal increases in weight.  Outdoor fabrics for tents and backpacks were some of the first commercial applications.  However, this technology is used in the tactical theater in items such as parachutes and hovercraft skirts.  

Depending on who you are, the chances of your watch strap seeing the kind of harsh environment as a hovercraft skirt are probably slim. But then again so is the need for a 300m dive watch, and yet here we are.  Rather, the ripstop fabric is unapologetically life ready and wants you to throw anything at it.  Overdesigned by its very nature, the strap outer layer embodies a vintage tactical look to my eyes in an amalgamation of an Olive green with hints of a Tartan pattern that is as much a pleasure to touch and feel as it is to look at. Part of that pleasure comes from the fact that this is not a nylon strap, or a canvas strap. This outer layer is cotton, so it is rather soft and flexible to the touch. Think T-shirt not duffle bag and you would be close.  The use of cotton means with use it will get softer and the color will pick up lighter patina with life experiences.  Imagine it as part watch strap, part time capsule. 

If you would like a bit more historical detail of the Ripstop material chosen, I invite you to read Bulang and Sons own take on this particular material and why they chose it: 

The bottom of the strap is made of what appears to be a soft calf leather. It has a satin sheen to it and feels quite durable.  This smooth surface glides quite easily over the surface of your skin and is extremely comfortable for all day wear. The buckle side of the strap is embossed with the Bulang and Sons logo.  Holding all of this together are some contrast white stitching which secure the leather to the cotton outer layer. I would not call them stark white, but rather a subdued off white. It may be my eyes, but I detect hints of silver in the thread. Stitches can change a strap from dressy to sporty and from casual to tool like.  Depends on how they are executed and what color they are.  These stitches add a very tool like look to this strap and reinforce the notion that this strap will be around for a while. 

Adding to the durability equation is a subtle detail that could be taken for granted. Leather has a natural thickness and toughness about it.  When you cut leather to make a strap you have the option to leave the edges raw or you can burnish them depending on the look you would like to achieve. However, when you cut cloth into the shape you need, the edges must be mended so they will not fray.  The method used to secure this strap is to roll the fabric around the outside edge of the strap and tuck it beneath the leather for protection.  This is the best way to preserve the smooth transition from top to side of the strap without a break in continuity.  It is a detail that is easy to miss when it is done well. 

KEEPER AND BUCKLE 

This strap uses a traditional keeper layout with one being fixed and the other allowed to move to secure the extra length on the free end. These keepers are made of a beautifully grained light brown or taupe colored soft leather and are perfectly sized so they add next to no additional thickness. This adds a fantastic earthy vibe to the strap while the contrasting textures allow supremely easy feed through of the ripstop cotton.  The olive green and brown work together so naturally that they give off an aged vintage aura. 

The buckle is the classic B&S buckle. This is a very geometric affair and is very squared off and precise. The linear brushing is welcome as is the lightly etched B&S logo.  The buckle has a slight relief on the underside to allow the strap to center itself nicely while being worn. This keeps the height of the buckle down as well and keep the strap close to the wrist and well managed. 

HOW DOES IT WEAR

Right out of the box this strap is all about texture. Both visually and tactically it engages the senses and never lets up. The brown inner leather is smooth and comfortable without ever getting irritating regardless of the heat or cold.  I associate it with a fine military uniform freshly pressed when you get it.  After the first week it becomes accustomed to being used and gives freely to the touch. As more and more time passes the strap develops a memory of your wrist and almost feeds itself in the morning. 

The rigid geometric pattern on the outside drives the brain to think this will be a rough and cold strap to the fingers. However, this proves to be something of a perpetual surprise in that is so soft and warm to the touch the mind cannot seem to process it. The dichotomy of soft geometric weave is an endlessly entertaining one.  This illusion will only continue to improve over time as well, as the strap welcomes use.  Mine has been completely soaked in pond water, nibbled on by my new puppy, scratched by a few limbs we trimmed from our trees in the back yard, and scuffed when I was doing come carpentry on my wife’s potting bench. At no time was I concerned about the strap like I would be with a fine leather or suede.  Outside of long dives underwater this strap encourages use and will reward you by capturing every moment in your life.  

WHAT IS IT GOOD FOR

This strap has a very strong personality that will not shy away from having an effect on your favorite watch. The look of this strap covers a wide variety of watch genres. Off hand, I would pair this with any field watch absolutely no question. But that is too easy.  I think it would look amazing on a pilots watch as well. The grid pattern has more than a small overtone of technical precision and aviation seems to embody this wonderfully.  

It does not stop there though.  This strap would look great on a large swath of tool watches as well. Its robust construction begs to be used and put through your life’s paces. Punish this strap and it will come back for more the next day wearing every scar with a quiet nobility.  I think this strap embodies the phrase, ‘that which does not kill it makes it stronger’. I chose to put this strap on my First Omega In Space.  When I added this strap the speedy image changed from racing watch or space watch to a technical tool that is ready for field work.  I actually used my speedy for all my yard work for the week, when I usually wear it for more dressy events because it is paired with leather.  The strap changed the whole form / function equation for me. I also had this on my 38mm Zenith El primero and the technical scientist vibe of the El Primero came out like it has never done.  

This strap is not a dress watch strap. But for daily life with all its ups and down and adventures both in the office and in the campground, this strap is a wonderful compliment to your favorite life activity watch. 

WHERE CAN I GET IT

Best place, and only place to pick up a Bulang and Sons Ripstop strap is direct from B&S themselves: 

SUMMARY 

As consumers we love features.  “Why yes, I would like the Navigation, and the Rear Cross Traffic Alert please”. Generally, we correlate more features with a higher trim level of product. Conversely, nothing says you did not pony up enough coin than those annoying blank block off plates on your cars dash or console.  The Ripstop Strap from Bulang and Son’s carries with it a notable price tag. At 153.00 USD (excluding VAT)  a watch strap better come with some incredibly good features to justify the price.  To carry the automotive analogy along a bit further, I am happy to say this strap is akin to buying a car and checking every single option box (and the extended warranty and gap insurance to boot).  You are getting a wonderful outer material that is unique in the watch strap world. You are getting craftsmanship from one of the finest German watch strap manufacturers in business today (Kaufmann). You get a beautiful leather inner strap and contrasting lovely leather keepers. More over the whole package comes together in a splendid vintage tactical package that is a bit old world and a bit techy.  It is a sublime creation and one I will cherish on almost all my 19mm watches.