Worn and Wound Hoyt Tobacco Brown Watch Strap
October 25, 2020
There is a calm boldness about mother nature. She quietly provides us a roadmap to all things by way of her infinitely diverse creations. The ground work for buildings and airplanes and even artificial intelligence all have more than a smokey wisp of a trace back to natural things. To appreciate this you need do little more than take a slow walk along a path in any park in the world to marvel at the adaptability and determination of life that quietly surrounds us.
While most humans struggle to fit into this harmonious balance of life, I do feel some cultures celebrate it far more than others. Fewer still have based an entire watch culture around it with more dedication than the Japanese and specifically, Grand Seiko. They have created the seasons collection which is a doctoral thesis on dial creation for the rest of the industry to marvel at. The Soko collection was a deeper refinement of the 4 main seasons. The watch attached to the strap I am reviewing today is part of that collection and was created based on a moment in time. There is an instant when the early morning light in its soft glow first envelops the endless expanse of bamboo which is wearing the lightest coast of frost that can exist in early fall. In that moment of time, an emotion was created and the Soko collection was born. This celebration of nature and horology has no equal – that I am aware of.
I chose this incredible strap from Worn and Wound called the Hoyt as my subject for todays review. I have had it on many watches and it worked well on my Omega Speedmaster, and my Heuer 160 years Silver Carrera. However, it really helped amplify the connection to nature in the Soko Grand Seiko due to its earthy tones and soft suede construction. More on that in a bit. I have been wearing the strap for 2 weeks straight and found it a willing companion on walks and dinner all the while serving as solid grounding point to let the watch shine. Here is what Worn and Wound say about this particular watch strap:
The Hoyt is a minimal but rugged strap made out of a super-tough, matte leather, with a waxy “vintage” character. Extremely earthy, this leather has a unique faded tonality and ability to scar, and scratch allowing it to wear in interesting ways. Designed for modern tool watches and vintage sport watches, the Hoyt is the perfect match for watches with some wear and patina.
Featuring a no-stitch design, 4mm taper (3mm on 19mm), 3mm thickness, straight cut edges with brown paint, and dark brown lining leather, the Hoyt mixes a classic profile with a masculine build. Made in Italy, the Hoyt’s tough build and rustic character are supported by cleanly executed details and high quality manufacturing
DIMENSIONS
Once again I ordered the 19mm version of this strap as I seem to have an abundance of 19mm lug width watches. This is not a bad thing, despite what you hear about on many of the channels on the Tube. 19mm is not a death sentence like it was 10 years ago, as many straps are available in this size and every day it gets better. Fear not the 19mm lug width my friends (now 21mm, I cannot say the same – looking at you Longines Spirit collection!). This strap is also available in the more commercially friendly 20mm and 22mm as well.
My strap came in at 18.8mm at the lugs and a beautifully elegant 15.5mm as measured at the last adjustment hole on the free end. The strap has a uniform thickness of 3mm from end to end and is an average length of 115mm/75mm on the free and buckled end respectively. The way the adjustment holes are placed, I am on the second to last on my 6.75″ wrist with the Grand Seiko Lug to Lug measurement of around 47mm. This strap should be able to fit a wide variety of people and watches with relative ease.
DESIGN
With nearly no stitches or embossing of any kind I was concerned that this may be an overly modern style of strap. Clean lines and minimal details speak to a minimalist aesthetic. However, about 1 minute from taking it out of the package I knew this was way off the mark. I was about 180 degrees out of sync with this strap. While I have no doubt this would excel at being a contrasting backdrop to a modern style watch with a clean aesthetic, the suede is so warm and earthy (prepare to see that word a bunch) it expands its usage envelope quite a bit.
The strap is 3mm thick which is neither highlighted nor hidden with the color of the side sealant which is neither loud nor bold. It is a wonderful dark brown tone that draws no attention to itself and harmoniously blends with some of the darker tones the suede is apt to take depending on usage. The under side of the strap has been blessed with a rich waxy leather which is extremely pleasant to the touch and rides smoothly against the wrist. The free end of the strap carries a nice Wind Up shop embossing with many lines of text artfully laying out who made it and where.
The outside of the strap, even though not overflowing with details is the absolute star of the show. The color and texture prove simple but immensely captivating. The brown suede comes across as very organic and yes, earthy. It’s color conjures up feelings of bark, and earth, while its texture resembles that delicate moss that grows in the dampest parts of forest floor. The suede, like mother nature, reacts to your touch and changes with every encounter with the world around it.
KEEPER AND BUCKLE
This strap uses the standard keeper set up with one fixed (held in by almost invisible brown stitches) and one floating. They are sized appropriately and are constructed so the free end easily feeds through them. At times suede can be difficult to feed through on some straps, but the worn and wound waxy underside makes it a pleasure to use. The keepers are made of the same material as the main strap with the same tone and texture. The sides appear to be sealed the same as the main strap to increase durability so that is a nice touch.
The buckle is a blend of linear brushing (albeit very light) and high polishing. Made very simply, the buckle follows the tapered strap very well and tucks away to lay extremely flat against the skin. I found the buckle well matched with the holes in the free end and it was very easy to use and easy to forget while on the wrist.
HOW DOES IT WEAR
Worn and Wound carries a wide variety of straps. I have never had one that disappointed me. This Hoyt is no exception. The important things are all there in spades as the coolest color and suede texture is meaningless if the strap feels like cardboard. Luckily this strap is more like a well worn in belt that yields to the slightest touch. It feels closer to a 2mm strap than a 3mm and wears just as well.
On the wrist the straps waxy soft inside leather is all day comfortable and the suede keeps giving you an infinite array of brown colors and textures to enjoy throughout your day. There is a depth to the brown that seems to go deep into the leather. It looks ancient and storied which brings with it an air of sophistication and timelessness like an old fallen tree in the woods that has a thousand tales to tell.
WHAT IS IT GOOD FOR
Well obviously this is a wonderful strap for the clean aesthetics of Grand Seiko’s seasons collection. The aura of both the strap and watch pull inspiration from the same place. Some straps physical appearance or material construction dictate what watches they may be paired with, and that is true with this strap as well (read as no swimming please). However, this particular strap has the ability to elevate the connection to nature of many in the GS lineup as well as many other watches.
Picking a strap does not have to be just about simple visual characteristics. There are times a design ethos can guide you. Sometimes it is a personal connection, unique to yourself, that goes beyond colors or textures which drives the watch/watch strap pairing. Let your emotions be the acceptance criteria in all your watch strap choices as your own personal preference is really the only one that matters.
Looking outside of the GS realm, this strap could help ground a great many field watches. I think its textured surface can act as a great back drop to bring out a very sharp dial that is perhaps on the minimalist side. The lack of stitches or padding will allow the watch to shine against an even background. Suede is a very organic material and it really lends itself well to fall and cooler temperatures. I think this strap will shock you at how versatile it really is.
WHERE CAN I GET IT
You can purchase this strap at Worn and Wounds online shop, called the WindUp Shop:
SUMMARY
For this review my watch led me to this strap. I wager that is often how it goes. We have a favorite watch that we want to enjoy in a new way. My search has led me to this home grown delight from Worn and Wound. I really enjoyed this strap for the time I had it on my GS. It will see a rotation between the bracelet and the GS grey leather strap that came with the watch. Whether you want to connect back to a more organic wearing experience, or just love those shades of brown the suede offers, this is a simple strap that still adds value and beauty to the watch it is fixed. Hope you give it a chance.