Bulang and Sons Siena Brown Leather Watch Strap
January 15, 2019
The very first words I recorded for the strapsense website were the following, “nothing changes the look of a wrist watch like a new strap.” I still feel this to be as true today as ever. Much like how new wheels can change the look of a car, a strap imbues the watch with a personality or storyline created with leather or fabric that implies a journey of sorts. One of the most repeated lines from my reviews is that the watch strap is the story with the watch being the main character.
This is the second strap from Bulang and Sons I am reviewing. Anytime I do a review from a vendor whom I have previously spoken of, it usually means the quality and construction were so good the first time, I could not wait to see what else they have to offer. Will the sequel be as good? Will it surpass the first product I reviewed (https://strapsense.com/2018/11/29/bulang-and-sons-refined-natural-piombo-grey-leather-watch-strap/)and will the quality control be consistent? I looked to find out. But first here is what B&S has to say about their very own Siena Brown Leather Watch strap.
From the vegetable tanning to the splitting – in hours and hours of traditional work, the craftsmen of Tuscany create a leather for our watch straps that is incredibly supple.
The extra oiling of this leather gives the burnt orange tones a stunning depth that has made our side-stitched Siena straps so popular.
In the world of watch straps, the processes and construction of straps are as varied as the vendors who sell them. How much of the strap is done ‘in house’ versus how much is outsourced can have a direct effect on the final product that ends up at your door. The amount of hand finishing touted by any vendor can be a source of pride and just rational of a lofty price tag. I think the trick is to produce a product that seems to make the most of the best materials available that are assembled with the proper combination of automation and hands on craftsmanship. I believe that B&S has found a great recipe of these two ingredients. Let us take a closer look.
DIMENSIONS
The Bulang and Sons Siena Brown Leather strap I purchased was the 19mm version so it would fit my Speedmaster and my Grand Seiko. All Dimensions listed are for that size, however, the strap is available in all sizes from 18 mm to 22 mm. My strap measured 18.7mm at the lugs and tapered to 15.8mm at the free and buckle end. The taper allows the watch strap that little bit of elegance that brings out some old world charm in the Grand Seiko.
The strap is 120mm/75mm on the free end and buckle end respectively, which means on my 6.75” wrist I am on the last or second to last adjustment hole. Smaller wristed people will have to punch added adjustment holes, consider this your warning.
The strap thickness is mostly uniform and stays in the 2.9mm to 3.1mm along its entire length. I find this to be a good all-around thickness for most casual daily wear kind of watches that wears well and still looks rugged enough for regular use.
DESIGN
This is another strap constructed in the ‘vintage’ style. Two whip stitches by the lugs and by the buckle with little else to draw attention away from the watch this strap is attached. I like this style strap and find the descriptor used to be fitting and pleasingly vague. What do I mean by that? Vintage can mean many things to many people. This no frills construction speaks to an older time which I find appealing and Bulang and Sons are masters of making something in a special elegantly rudimentary fashion. What do I mean by that? Modern straps have all the benefits of today’s manufacturing technology at their disposal so making a strap that uses just enough of these modern cost saving tools while keeping the most important hand finishing work to the skills of craftsman requires effort and attention to detail. Both of which is found in this strap
The color variability in the strap is outstanding with deep almost black like hues toward the edges and lighter patches along its length as the natural hide soaked up color in different amounts. When stretched and bent the leather selected as a wonderful pull-up and distressed veins and patterns emerge in the surface that will add an organic character year after year.
The strap has a fantastic lack of hysteresis when bent and pulled in different directions. The leather has been worked to have no memory of its original shape. This is a very good thing as when shaped to your particular wrist, it will not attempt to flatten out and therefore be uncomfortable. All day comfort with this is strap is easily achieved the same day you remove it from the package. This has been true of both B&S straps I have reviewed.
The stitching on this strap is nicely done. Very tight whip stitches with a thick linen looking thread that is not pure white, but rather an antique white. In a welcome bit of restraint, the stitches at the free end are not white, but are dyed as well to blend in with the brown leather. The sides of the strap have been burnished to give the strap a longer life and a much tidier appearance. I do enjoy seeing the sides sealed on straps as I think that gives the designers some creative play space, but sometimes it is very nice to see the layers of the leather so you can appreciate how it was built.
KEEPER AND BUCKLE
The Siena tapers from 19 to 16 millimeters again staying true to the vintagy feel of the strap. This taper allows B&S to use a very small and compact buckle that closely follows the leather. This cannot be done if the precision at which the leather is made is not held very tight. Make the strap too wide, and the buckle will wear out the sides of the leather causing it to fray. Make the leather too narrow and it will be a sloppy fit. This strap has neither of these common problems. The buckle pull through is easy and quick.
This strap has the standard two keeper design with one floating and the other being fixed. They are narrow keepers which add no bulk to the strap and are dyed in the same deep saturated nature as the strap. Feed though the keepers is tight, but not overly so.
HOW DOES IT WEAR
Instant vintage is common fad these days. People want their new jeans, watch, furniture to look old from day one. Getting something to look old while not without craft is far easier to recreate than to get something to feel old. The Bulang and Sons Siena strap is extremely well made and finished to such a degree that it is an homage to vintage craftsman of yore. However, with the way the leather has been worked it also feels like a well broken in belt or leather glove. The rich oils and waxes that have permeated the skin make the strap rich to the touch. Seeing the colors and wrinkles in the leather form even after a short time are very rewarding. The Grand Seiko tan dial takes on a historic look, like old parchment with this strap attached, something the original Alligator strap never did. This strap is like a time machine taking the Grand Seiko to a place it had never been. I think that is the power of a great strap.
If I were to ever meet Indiana Jones, Dr. Jones if I may, he would surely have such a strap on his wrist. Leather, old world crafted, and as supple as his gun holster or whip.
WHAT IS IT GOOD FOR
These types of straps show up on all kinds of watches, from field watches, to dress watches, to casual daily wear timepieces. With the exception for water going divers, I see no reason why this strap could not work on a great many or even most watches. I would be prepared though as it will most certainly age your timepiece and take it 180 degrees from anything that is modern. The thickness of 3mm is spot on for the bulk of watches made today. From your Hamilton Khaki, to Grand Seiko, to your Sinn 556 this strap tells a story gained though a great many life’s adventures.
I would recommend putting this strap on your favorite daily wear watch and let gain a scratch or three and let those help you tell your story.
WHERE CAN I GET IT
The only place I know to get a real Bulang and Sons Strap is straight from them:
https://www.bulangandsons.com/watch-straps/siena-brown-leather-watch-strap.html
SUMMARY
This is not the first vintage styled strap I have reviewed. Certainly will not be the last. However, if you are looking for a strap with wonderful leather that will age with you and take your watch to a time where it has been or always wanted to go, I can recommend this strap will do that job quite nicely.