B and R Bands Brown Horween Classic Vintage Watch Band

B and R Brown Horween Classic Vintage Watch Strap

Above image taken from B and R bands

Having previously spent many weeks with a strap that was made of the finest leather available in the States and possibly the entire world, I was eager to see what other straps were available that used products which originated from within the 100+ year old Horween Leather Company out of Chicago.  Shell Cordovan is made at the Horween Leather Company (along with only a handful other tanneries around the world) with their own proprietary blends and arduous procedures to make it unique from other Shell Cordovan manufactured else where. However, there is one product that is made only by Horween that is not duplicated anywhere else. That product is called Chromexcel Leather which is just as laborious and taxing to produce, both in terms of operations and man hours, as Shell Cordovan, but with a personality all its own.

Since once again the material used to make this strap is arguably its most important feature, we need to understand what makes Chromexcel so special and I think the reader will need to know what the differences are between Shell Cordovan and Chromexcel leather.  Without going into great details about the processes to make each, I want to get to what matters to the end watch strap buyer.  First and foremost Shell Cordovan is made from the posterior lining of a horses rump, while Chromexcel is bovine or from the hide of a cow.  Each involve a huge amount of human labor capital invested by Horween (think months of time not days or weeks per hide).   Chromexcel is air dried versus vacuum dried. This greatly reduces the yield of leather as it is still sold by the square foot, so shrinkage is money right out the door. However, what it gives up in square footage, it makes up for in how supple the leather feels to the touch. The air dying pays dividends to the end user by being very flexible and comfortable from day one.   Also, while Shell Cordovan has nearly non existant pores, which gives it a very high luster and can be polished to a glossy finish with incredible luster chromexcel starts life more matt and can remain that way or can be polished to a satin finish with a respectable shine.  Another important fact for the end user is that Chromexcel will take on creases and wrinkles and hold them over the years while shell cordovan bends gracefully and avoids any folds or wrinkles.  Both leathers will scuff and pick up patina easily but both have the ability for those scuffs to be removed to differing degrees. Shell Cordovan is known for its ability to have just about any scuff buffed completely out. Chromexcel has similar prosperities but its ‘rejuvination’ ability is limited which means some scuffs are with you for life.  Either product will last you for 30 years with a minimal of maintenance or care.

I searched the net for a simple straight forward comparison to give visual evidence of the differences of the finish and wear of both of these wonderful products.  Take a look at the video below and I think it will help out your understanding and maybe guide you in your decision.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eI-J7JoUTM

Before I get into my review, I want to put some well chosen words from B and R Bands on the Brown Vintage Classic Horween Strap:

If you like brown boots, brown belts, and wearing a sweater, than you’re going to love this strap. Made from Chicago’s famous Horween Chromexcel leather, you’ll experience first hand as the strap’s character develops with wear. With attention to detail, each strap is taper cut with precision revealing the straps edges to enhance the vintage look. In it’s final stage, each strap is carefully sewn by hand with a premium waxed khaki thread.

Alright, with that out of the way, please enjoy the Strapsesne review:

DIMENSION

This is the 20mm version of the B and R Horween Classic Vintage Watch strap. It is also available in an 18mm version. Mine came in at 19.6mm at the lugs and tapering down to 16.5mm at both the buckle and free end respectively.  It has a uniform thickness of 2.6mm across the entire length of the strap.  This is a full 1mm thicker than the shell cordovan strap I reviewed earlier, and while 1mm does not sound like much, watch straps are an industry of millimeters. That extra millimeter provides a different feel and aesthetic to the strap.  The strap is available three different lengths (S,M,L).  I usually choose the Medium size as that is a 120/80 mm long strap in the free end and buckle end respectively.  With this length chosen I am on the very last adjustment hole (on my 6.75″ wrist) for that perfect fit with just a tad of movement while not being tight at all.

DESIGN

This is a typical two whip stitch style of vintage watch strap.  Those stitches are the only embellishments to speak of on this strap. The strap has a very nice taper that lends itself to a great many watches, but definitely has a leaning to a more dressy watch but without sacrificing its rugged leather construction. Looking closely at the sides of the strap you can see how the strap leather wraps around the spring bar and is glued together at the ends. This construction allows the user to experience this premium quality leather on both sides of the strap. I think this is a brilliant move in terms of design and ruggedness. Some other straps are constructed of a lower quality leather on the inside with nice ‘finished’ leather on the outside.  Not the case with B and R.  This construction maximizes the Horween experience, and I really like that.  The inside of the strap, upon close inspection, seems be finished with equal care and attention to detail as the outside you see. On the buckle side the inside of the strap is stamped BandR bands in an attractive font. On the free end, you see the embossed ‘Genuine Horween 1905 Chromexcel Leather’ very clearly marked.   The color of this particular strap reminds me of a rich molasses, as the color is deep and undulating in depth and penetration of the dyes. Chromexcel exhibits incredible pull up due to its rich oils and fats used in the tanning process. When twisted or bent it discolors a bit marking the location of the stress applied to the leather.  This strap will age beautifully.  One of the larger differences in Chromexcel vs Shell Cordovan is that the equine leather on the Shell Cordovan piece will not take a crease or wrinkle when it is bent. Chromexcel will ripple and wrinkle a bit with a wonderful waviness when bent but go right back to silken smoothness when straightened out. The only evidence it was ever wrinkled is the slight color distortions marked by the peaks and valleys of those creases.    If those discolorations are not wanted most of them can be removed with slight rubbing or applying a leather care product.

The sides of the strap are sealed in a brown color to match the strap. I would assume if you bought a black one it would be black versus brown.  This sealing helps prevent fraying and adds resistance from abrasion from passing through the buckle. The sealing is applied lightly as the dual layer construction is still visible if you look closely.

What B and R has done is take a genuine sublime piece of leather and showcased by adding nothing more than an elegant construction, minimal extremely well done tight khaki stitching, and quality finishing.  Allowing the leather to be the star is akin to ordering some Kobe beef and only lightly sprinkling it with some salt and then enjoying.

KEEPER AND BUCKLE

This is a two keeper system. One is fixed to the strap and one floats to hold whatever is left of the free end when you buckle it to your wrist. Both keepers are made of the same material as the strap. They are appropriately sized and do a good job of keeping the free end in place.  The sides of the keepers are sealed in the same way as the rest of the strap.

The buckle is satin or brushed stainless steel and is well executed. Free from any embossing or decoration is does not draw an attention to itself.  I would not mind seeing a bit of well-placed etching on it, as I feel this strap can afford to ring its bell a bit. The pull up through the buckle is smooth and effortless, as the holes in the leather provide plenty of room for the buckle pin.  When being work, the buckle wears very flat and is unobtrusive and very comfortable.

HOW DOES IT WEAR

This is my favorite part of the review if I am honest, because I can just be as verbose as I dare and tell you how it feels to wear these straps.   This B and R strap has a construction that matches the quality of the material it is made of. That is just about as high praise as I can give a strap.  From the second you hold the strap, its smooth and supple nature begin to evolve. The leather gives to the slightest touch and leather has no stiff leg syndrome at all.  It yields and wants to be in the last shape it was bent.  The color permeations of brown change as the strap curves around the wrist.  Those lovely creases when you pull up the free end through the buckle find light brown highlights as the oils and greases in the leather are displaced leaving a wonderfully organic and complex depth to the color.  To the touch it feels rich and almost moist.  As you rub your fingers on the leather you almost feel as if you should have oil on your fingers each time but if you check will be dry. Such is the nature of Chromexcel.  The creases in the leather vanish when bent to stretch the strap only leaving behind the slight discoloration as evidence this leather has been worn and worked.  It is a joy to pick up and wear each day and is so lovely it often draws attention from the watch it is installed.

WHAT IS IT GOOD FOR

With its graceful taper and 2.6mm thickness it is a strap that can be used on a huge amount of watches. I put it on my newly acquired Omega Railmaster as the khaki threads perfectly compliment the indices lume color.  I have not been able to remove it since. But this dark rich brown would look good on any pilots watch.  The old world construction and lack of stitching means it would look marvelous on a field watch.  It is not so thick that it would overpower a vintage Seamaster or Hamilton either.  While the large around of oils in Chromexcel bequeath it with some manner of water resistance I would not want to test it, therefore I would avoid pools or the ocean while not worrying about any rain.  This strap has it all. Vintage charm, old word construction and minimalism. Leather that practically defies explanation (no matter how much I try), and a price that is absolutely spot on worth it.

WHERE DO I GET IT

I bought my B and R Bands strap from their own well executed web site. I recommend you give them a look.

http://www.bandrbands.com/brown-horween-classic-vintage-watch-band.aspx

SUMMARY

Having seen many watch bands of varying price and quality, I can say with confidence, that B and R bands is offering something truly special.  The construction and material quality are absolutely without doubt. I would recommend them to anybody without second of hesitation.  The construction of the strap is easily on par with straps costing two times as much.  I would love to meet the craftsman who make this and shake his or her hand.  They have taken a material that is very definition of rugged luxury and created a product worthy of its heritage.  I tip my had B and R.