Hodinkee Unlined Blue Shell Cordovan Watch Strap
May 4, 2018
Hodinkee Unlined Blue Shell Cordovan Watch Strap ($165.00)
It is impossible to write this review like I have written others. This is a special review since we are not just reviewing a nice watch strap. This review is as much about the material used as it is about the strap construction and how it wears. To do both parts of this justice, I have to take them separately starting with the material used in construction.
If you have ever done any amount of shopping for watch straps, the name Shell Cordovan has come up and more times than not, the strap associated with that name had a higher an expected price tag. You may have asked yourself what makes this leather better than the Genuine leather stamped on the back of other watch straps. To answer that you need to do little more than go outside and look at a spruce tree. Just like a raw piece of leather the spruce tree represents a pure natural raw material. That spruce can be made into many things by many people. However, in the 17th, and 18thcenturies, once in a generation artisans named Antonio Stradivari and Giuseppe Guarneri came along and took that raw spruce and made it into some of the most beautiful stringed instruments ever created by man. In that same fashion of taking a plain raw material and turning it into something unlike anything in the world, the Horween Leather company (the oldest leather tannery in the Unites States, established 1905) of Chicago Illinois crafts some of the finest leather made anywhere in the world today.
Shell Cordovan is unlike any other leather you have likely come into contact with. It starts with Equine Leather versus bovine (horse vs cow) sourced mainly from horses in France or Canada. In particular, it is made from the membrane underneath the hide found in rear flanks of the horse. To get to this membrane the outer layer of the hide must be removed, by hand, in a painstakingly long process and then finished. This membrane has no pores to speak of and its tight fibrous nature give it an almost mirror like smoothness that through many hours of elbow grease is highlighted by craftsman over time. Horween has been making Shell Cordovan for over a hundred years using a family honed process that takes over 6 months per shell. The process of creating Shell Cordovan is loosely described on many websites, so I will not get into extreme amounts of detail. However, I feel obliged to take some words from Nick Horween, the great great grandchild of the original owner who founded the company and started the manufacture of Shell Cordovan 113 years ago.
In an article found on www.bestleather.com Nick talked about the hot stuffing portion of the process, which is just one of over 70 complex and labor intensive processes done to create this product. His words from that interview are below:
Truth be told, there is a bit of magic involved (with hot stuffing). Each piece of leather is a natural product and the food-grade fats we use are also natural products. There is a science to tanning leather but sometimes it is more akin to cooking. Hot stuffing is a process done by very few tanneries in the world. Hot stuffing is technically part of a retanning process where we reintroduce fats/greases/oils to nourish the fibers of the skin. The retanning process is responsible for most of the leather characteristics in terms of tactile and other sensory qualities (look, feel, smell). For hot stuffing we start by steam-heating wooden drums, add retanned or veg tanned leather, and add a special blend of greases, waxes, and oils that are all propriety to Horween and mixed in house special for each product we make. Greases, waxes, and oils are pounded into the skins by the tumbling action of the heated mills. The process is specifically different from other fat liquor methods used where emulsified oils/fats are used to condition and nourish the fibers of the skin — the steam heat is not required to melt the oils/waxes/grease to penetrate the fibers.
Hot stuffing is special because it allows us to use raw, less refined conditioning agents like beeswax, tallow, lanolin and paraffin. These impart very favorable characteristics, like water resistance, and we have to use the hot stuffing process to introduce them as they cannot be emulsified.
As you can see there is not a shred of cost cutting in this process or automation that a week of research turned up. This is still pretty much the exact same process perfected over a century ago. The instant you handle Shell Cordovan for the first time it is apparent you are holding something very special that is created by people with a relentless commitment to quality a passion for their craft. From the tanning, to the hot stuffing, to the rubbing and dyeing and finishing shell cordovan is veritable definition of labor intensive. The automobile world has Ferrari and Pagani, the watch world has Patek Philippe, and the leather world has Shell Cordovan.
Hopefully I have at least partially conveyed the special nature of Shell Cordovan and why any product made of this sublime material is immediately given special status. This product is available across a narrow range of products (since the size of the Shell or horses butt is quite limited), such as wallets, shoes, and yes watch straps. If you were going to start to produce a leather product, starting with Shell Cordovan all but guarantees the final product will be something that can be treasured for a lifetime or two. Now it is time to see how Hodinkee used this fascinating material. Did they create the Stradivarius of watch straps? Or was it a wasted opportunity? Before I go into that, let see what Hodinkee says about their strap:
Tanned at the world-famous Horween Leather Company in Chicago, Illinois, shell cordovan has become some of the most sought after leather in the world. The thin, robust nature of shell makes it at home on any dress watch, and of all the leathers in the world, it ages the best, offering true patina for the wearer. This is, quite simply, an amazingly beautiful strap.
DIMENSIONS
The strap I ordered was listed as 20mm at the lugs. I am happy to report that I measured it at 20.5mm which is what I normally like to see. The extra width helps the strap fill the lugs completely. The taper on the width is dramatic which is exactly what you want in a dress strap. Mine went from 20.5 mm at the lugs to 16.2mm at the loose ends of the strap. Shell Cordovan when it is sold unlined (meaning without an inner piece of leather like most dual layer straps) is quite thin. The strap measures a dead even 1.5mm thick uniformly across the entire length. If you have any doubts this is a dress watch strap, the thickness should put all doubts to rest. My strap strayed away from the normal 120/80mm in length found on most other straps and came in a shorter 110/75mm long at the free end and buckle end respectively. On a strap with 7 adjustment holes I am using the 4thhole on my 6.75” wrist. This would be classified as a short length strap by most other manufacturers, so keep that in mind if you have a bigger wrist.
DESIGN
While it was very easy and quite enjoyable to write about the quality of the material used to make this strap, the design and construction of it gives me pause as I have to make myself look at this strap very closely. Hodinkee is a very trusted name in the watch industry. Their writers and editors have been in this watch game much longer than I have. None the less, I have to speak my mind and review what I am holding in my hand.
This strap is marketed as a handmade strap and if you have read many of my reviews, you know I really do love that level of personal detail and craftsmanship. The design of this strap is simplicity itself as its construction does absolutely everything to bring to bear all the owners attention to the rare and artisan crafted leather it is constructed of. The ‘features’ then as it stands are very limited to the strap shape and extremely limited stitching on the strap. Let us first talk about the strap shape. In any dress strap, a dramatic taper is the proper course to take. Dress watches are often slim and in many cases they are smaller and lighter. A huge thick strap gives the whole watch an unneeded heft and bulk that run contrary to the aesthetic of what an elegant dress watch is trying to be. This strap has a lovely gradual taper that is well executed in symmetry and subtlety. The other noteworthy feature of the shape of the strap is the single layer construction. The vast majority of straps sold today have one nicer piece of leather purposely made to be seen on the outside and one layer made to be comfortable or wear resistant against your skin. They are sewn and glued together in a myriad of ways which often leads to a bit of style along the way. The Shell Cordovan leather this strap is made of is so supple and soft and durable that it does not need more than one layer as by its very nature it is both beautiful and comfortable at the same time. The very thin 1.5mm strap effortlessly compliments smaller dress watches in ways thicker sportier straps simply cannot. This strap is a ballet dancer while sport straps are Olympic weight lifting champions. The difference is vast.
The only other design element is the stitching. This is a point of controversy for me as while I love the choice of blue they chose as it is noticeable without being overpowering, it is not perfectly straight nor is it evenly spaced or centered on the leather. Now you can look at this in two ways depending on your personal metrics for visual and tactile quality. The first way you can look at these irregular stitches is that they are actively TRYING to make it look more organic and hand made by purposefully making it look imperfect. On the Hodinkee store page for the strap you can clearly see they are NOT trying to hide these faults (or features depending on your point of view)
(https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/straps/products/unlined-blue-shell-cordovan-watch-strap)
The problem I have with this thought process is that handmade straps (of which I have reviewed many) do not have to be done like this to capture that artisan feel. Beautifully made straps which are made from beginning to end by the work of one human being can exude skill and precision while still having that special touch and warmth only a manmade product possesses. So trying to make a handmade strap look more handmade may be a noble gesture, I feel it comes off as a bit tacky if not disingenuous for a strap at this price point. The second, and far more cynical way you can view the stitches, is a buyer could say they spent a bunch of money on the leather and then just did the absolute minimum amount of work possible (while still being able to call it a watch strap) to get a strap to market so they could make as much profit as they could. Truthfully, I did not enjoy writing that, and I personally do not feel this was the path taken by Hodinkee. I am perfectly fine with adding the absolute minimum amount of ‘features’ to a watch strap when you have a material like Shell Cordovan to work with as at the end of the day you want the leather to be the star. However, if you take that route, the few features you DO decide to add will be extremely noticeable and they had better be absolutely without flaws or at the very least up to the level of quality the strap is made from. I do feel this strap is let down a bit by its construction, but at the end of the day it was saved by its heavenly material.
The back side of the strap is again unlined. You are treated to a ruggedly handsome green hue with Shell Cordovan proudly stamped on the back. I love seeing this, as this leather is why you bought this strap. This gives the owner quite a bit of pride knowing that his or her watch strap is made from the undisputed king of leather products as it caresses the wrist day in and day out. Also Hodinkee in a bit quiet humility also stamped its logo into the strap on the buckle end. However, it is far more subdued and you have to look at it to even see it. But I am glad it is there.
KEEPER AND BUCKLE
The strap has the standard twin keeper design, with one being fixed and the other is floating. They are noticeably thin and minimalist like the strap. The edges appear to be sealed in the same way the strap is but with them being only 1.5mm thick it is frankly hard to confirm that. Still they are crisp edges that show no signs of fraying or wear. The keepers are sized well, with just enough room for the thin free end of the strap to slide easily through and stay put where you want them. The floating keeper does not wander and does its job with zero fuss. The buckle is sadly a standard affair. This is one opportunity I think Hodinkee should have rang its bell a bit. Straps costing ¼ as much have laser etched buckles that exude quality in an understated way. Hodinkee has earned a spot among watch enthusiasts as a place for good reviews, stunning photos, and generally high quality content. I would have really preferred some subtle branding on the buckle to help in justifying the price of the strap and maybe give the buyer a chance to own a tiny part of Hodinkee themselves.
HOW DOES IT WEAR
Okay, forget everything about irregular threads, and buckles and well everything else on your mind for a minute. The instant you pull the free end through the buckle the magic of Shell Cordovan starts to take a hold of you. The ease at which it feeds through the keepers is mystifying. The leather has absolutely no color degradation when you bend it. In fact one of Shell Cordovans party tricks is it will not hold a crease. Most common leather creases and wrinkles when bent back on itself. Shell Cordovan simply lays back flat unscathed by the attempts to mar its surface. Due to the all the oils and waxes and greases that have been embedded into this leather, its smoothness can only be compared to quality silken fabrics. It is a sensation that is hard to get used to. An animal hide that shines like glossy paint, but is bendable and flexible like cloth. The strap wears like second 1.5mm thick skin. It moves with you yet is amazingly strong. It possesses a warmth unlike any other watch strap I have ever felt. The experience of wearing it is worth the price of entry.
WHAT IS IT GOOD FOR
I am wearing this on my Limited Edition Seiko Blue Enamel dial which is about 12mm thick. I would think this should be max thickness for this strap. It has just enough heft to handle a 12mm thick watch. I do, however, think it would be even better on a thinner dress watch. IF you have any vintage pieces that need a strap that is capable of adding class to an already classy piece without overpowering it, this is definitely your strap. I would avoid any sport watches, or field type watches personally as I think other straps are better suited for that environment. With that said, Shell Cordovan does have some inherent water resistance, but even with that being true, I am not sure I would want to take this strap swimming. I think this trap would look great on a NOMOS or maybe a Glashuette, or yes even a dressy Seiko.
WHERE CAN GET IT
As one may expect the only place to get a Hodinkee Unlined Blue Shell Cordovan Watch Strap is straight from Hodinkee! Shipping is fast as you would expect.
https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/straps/products/unlined-blue-shell-cordovan-watch-strap
SUMMARY
Let’s get one thing out in the open right now. This is a very expensive watch strap. That is not up for debate. No matter who you are by any measure spending nearly 200 dollars on a watch strap (that is not made of an exotic skin) requires some level of commitment and also comes with some pretty high expectations (and rightfully so). I have purchased many straps in the past that offered quality and value ranging from truly disappointing to jaw dropping good. If you review enough straps you will find yourself with a pile of them that probably range from 20 dollars to 80 dollars if you were bold. What Hodinkee is offering is a strap made of a truly luxury level material paired with construction that is a bit polarizing. If you decided to read this whole review you have come to find out if a 165 dollar strap is really 3x better than a 50 dollar watch strap. What I can tell you is that marketing is inflating the price a bit I am sure, but let me be perfectly clear. The Shell Cordovan alone is worth every single penny of that price. If you have the right dress watch you owe it to yourself to try this legendary leather.