Hirsch 109002-10-20 20 -mm Genuine Calfskin Watch Strap – The Hirsch Liberty
February 21, 2018
Before I go into this particular strap, I feel you need to know a bit about Hirsch, the company. The logo for Hirsch says The Bracelets Since 1765. That is quite a pedigree. On the Hirsch US page they give the traditional company ‘look at how great we are words’. For completeness I offer them up here.
Watchstraps developed and manufactured by HIRSCH are some of the finest and most detailed hand crafted watch attachments in the world. The aim of their developmental activity is to ensure longevity, comfort in wear and aesthetic appeal in all situations from the most formal to the sportiest. Hirsch’s generations of knowledge and their aesthetic feeling for watch “bracelets” enables them to support, as a professional partner, the overseas developmental activities of the watch manufacturing industry and specialty watch retailers. HIRSCH embodies a bracelet “culture” that is carefully safeguarded and passed on from generation to generation. HIRSCH’s technical innovations range from the invention of “remborde” technology (a seamless bond between the upper material and the lining of the strap) to the development of a special “recipe” for creating water-resistant leather as well as the development of a process to prevent leather allergies on sensitive skin.
From their very beginnings, innovation was driven by the effort to ensure longevity, provide wearer comfort and maintain aesthetics whenever a watch is being worn. HIRSCH’s family-run company remains true to its traditions and concentrates exclusively on the working of leather and similar materials into high-quality bracelets for watches. HIRSCH will continue into the future with this tradition…committing itself to the ongoing development of watch bracelets utilizing the highest technology in design and presentation. (http://www.hirschus.com)
Impressed yet? Well what that paragraph really means, is Hirsch has been doing this a long time. They are less subjects to fads and have weathered countless ups and downs of this industry. What this means to me is that they have staying power, which say if you have any issues with their product, I have no doubt they will be around to answer you phone call.
DIMENSIONS
Okay, enough with the formalities. Let us talk about the Hirsch Liberty from a numbers point of view. For practical purposes I will talk about the 20mm lug to lug width strap. Straps come in two parts obviously. The portion with the holes measures 120mm long, the portion with the buckle comes in at 80mm. You will see this nomenclature on strap vendors as 120/80. Those numbers sound great, but what does it mean. For my 6.75” wrist, it means you will be on the 2nd or 3rd tightest position on the strap, with the keepers providing good retention of the extra strap material (based on a watch that has a lug to lug length of 47mm mind you) if that matters to you. The strap starts off at 20mm per my calipers as advertised but tapers down to 16.8mm at the end. This tapering is often seen on watch a straps and in my humble opinion gives the strap some character that leans to vintage or luxury a bit. The strap is a consistent thickness and not considered a padded strap. As I take measurements down the length of both the buckle end and attachment end I get readings of 4.1, 4.3, 4.0, 4.2, 4.1. So figure it is about 4mm thick. Natural leathers may vary but count on that. 4mm is a good thickness for tool watches, or bulky watches. It balances out the heft of the case of the watch.
Hirsch describes the liberty as such: Sturdy saddle leather from the back of the skin (referring to where on the cattle pelt the leather came from). Leather is unique and has a natural grain that has been barrel dyed to the fiber and vegetable tanned.
These tanning and dying procedures are the magic of leather production. I am no expert but I do know they are closely guarded secrets. It has its ancient roots from the tannins obtained from oak bark and other trees and in the past used such wonderful things such as urine, feces, and cow brains to soften and condition the hide (fun factoid of the day right their!). Rest assured that modern companies like Hirsch have progressed from this, but I would not be shocked if the knowledge obtained from doing it the old way probably taught them valuable lessons to how to make modern techniques mimic that old world feel.
DESIGN
With the dimensions settled, lets talk about the design. The Hirsch Liberty has a robust feel to it. The leather is substantial but with a trick up its sleeve. The process Hirsch used on this strap allows it to bend and curve easily with out color distortion of the dyed leather. It is so supple it comes across as ‘moist’. You almost expect pigment to come out of it when you turn it and bend it, but of course it does not. The edges of the straps are sealed with black paint/sealant. This keeps the strap from fraying and adds a nice black detail aesthetically. The Hirsch Liberty has contrasting stitching with a finishing stitch by the spring bars for added security. A note on this stitching. Hirsch has a nice detail here than can be missed if you are not looking. The stitching is countersunk into the depths of the strap. You can see them and feel them but if viewed from the side the stitching disappears. This is a tiny detail that adds so much to the strap in terms of depth and interest. On the outside of the strap the strap has a rolled impression detail that also adds to the luxury and craftsman feel of this strap.
KEEPERS and BUCKLE
The keepers are of the one fixed and one floating variety but have the rolled impression the strap has. They could have easily NOT added that, but again, adding detail even when not needed is very impressive and shows a desire to do more than the competition. The buckle is highly polished, with a nice shape and embossed raised H logo.
HOW DOES IT WEAR
Right out of the package when you feel the Hirsch Liberty you discover its business saddle tough appearance is concealing a wonderful surprise. The flexibility of the strap is astounding for one of this type of thickness and construction. It conforms and melts around your wrist with ease. The color is so deep with no unsightly stretch marks or scratches that appear as the buckle is pulled tight. Even with a large amount of strap left to tuck, it bends easily to find both keepers with zero fuss. The inner surface of the strap is appears to be smooth but raw leather. It is neither itchy or irritating. I think it add to the rugged nature of the strap that the high quality outside hides. Hirsch has taken great strides in is tanning and dying to make hypoallergenic straps so those with allergies are much less affected.
WHAT IS THIS STRAP GOOD FOR
Guess after reading this it is no shock that I am a big fan of the Hirsch Liberty. I will be reviewing a great many more Hirsch straps in the near future as I have 3 more on my desk. I have experienced the same level of attention to detail with all of them. What would I use this for? Well, when looking for a strap for your field or aviation themed watch, I would highly recommend looking at Hirsch Liberty. Its rugged appeal and study construction lend it self well to ‘working’ watches. But by all means experiment. More fun can be had with a surprise ‘wow’ moment when swapping straps around.
WHERE YOU CAN GET ONE
Now, look, I am sure you can find these at other retailers online. but I have personally purchased from these two places with outstanding results time after time.
Holbens fine watch bands
http://www.holbensfinewatchbands.com
Amazon
http://amzn.to/2FkJ7ug